Gothamista Interviews | Vitamin A:  A Proven Ingredient

Gothamista Interviews | Vitamin A: A Proven Ingredient


Love to know how did you come across and why
do you focus on Retinaldyhyde and all these new sort of compounds I guess and complexes
of vitamin A or Retinoids. They are all published in peer review journals,
and I mean proper journals like British Journal of Dermatology or Nature’s kind of Dermatology
journal and so they are world proven and also it’s not like you have to make a leap of
faith anyway so the idea of say Retinaldehyde working isn’t really something that one
should be skeptical aver because when you understand that the way that vitamin A works
is, as I’m sure you know, Retinol will convert into Retinaldehyde biologically and then Retinaldehyde
again into Retinoic acid so effectively when you are applying Retinol you’re skin is
turning it into Retinoic acid so Retinoic acid is doing the work, that’s the biologically
active molecule in your cell nucleus anyway. So really, what we are proving is that Retinal
applied topically does convert into Retinoic acid. And what all the studies show is that Retinoic
acid is great, very good, but when you look at the clinical data obviously the patient
compliance goes down because of all of the adverse reactions. It’s not really great to use and then when
you look at the Retinaldehyde and, actually what’s incredible though is one paper published
in a very respected journal that showed the actual activity of the Retinaldehyde is comparable
to Retinoic acid but the irritation is much more comparable to Retinol, if not less. We
can recommend Crystal Retinal for long term use and on all skin types. And consistent use. Yeah. and for people that have actual anti
ageing concerns, it shouldn’t be just the tretinoin people.
You know, Retinaldehyde really is a universal, very very powerful yet very well tolerated
vitamin A. The challenge with Retinaldehyde is the stability. Right. It’s very unstable, very unstable. Makes ascorbic acid look stable. Really? It’s more unstable than even retonic,
tretinoin and all that? Yeah It’s very very difficult, yeah I’d say
even more so than Retinoic acid because it’s almost like it’s a, it’s in between, it’s
like a midway point between the Retinol and the Retinoic acid so it’s like it doesn’t
stay retinaldehyde very long, even in the body it doesn’t stay like that very long. Okay. And, in the formula, I mean you can make a
Retinaldehyde sample and it changes colour in days, like very very quickly and that’s
why despite telling all these amazing studies behind it then why isn’t it more prevalent,
you know? Well, that was my next question. Why isn’t
everybody doing this? Yeah. It’s all about the stability, it’s very
very hard. We actually developed our Crystal Retinal formula in collaboration with a university
nearby in Hertfordshire, yeah it was a lot of work, it was a few years work, but we finished
with a completely stable formula that had a full three year shelf life, doesn’t change,
doesn’t degrade. And the encapsulation is actually crystal
shaped which is why it’s called Crystal Retinal. So you know stability is so important
to us it even makes its way into the product name. Little bit geeky I think but you know. No, my world lives geeky. You mentioned sort of irritation, that can
put a lot of people off and that’s why we have all these different strengths in our
vitamin A range. We have so many different serums and strengths because we really do
believe that, I mean it’s part of our CSA write the vitamin A is undoubtedly the most
effective anti-ageing ingredient and we want to remove any reasons not to use it because
I think it’s so important for skin health, not just for anti ageing, it’s just good
for your skin to have topical vitamin A so we’ve got, well even with our Crystal Retinal,
we’ve got 1, 3, 6 and 10 strengths from 0.01 to 0.1 so that even with people who have
quite sensitive skin, you can start lower and then find the strength that works for
you and then build up if you can tolerate it. I think that journey as well as the stability
is what we want to try and offer so that people really can get into vitamin A.

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